Makalu Expedition cost and itinerary

The Makalu Expedition is one of the most difficult and technical climbs of the eight-thousanders and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to ascend. Expeditions to Makalu are a challenge due to the steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that make climbing Makalu extremely exposed to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Makalu has been climbed on many expeditions. Makalu, at 8463 meters, is the 5th highest mountain in the world. It is located just 20 kilometers from Mount Everest in the Makalu Barun National Park, itself a natural wonder.

Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of the French Makalu Expedition led by Jean Franco climbed Mount Makalu for the first time on May 15, 1955. The next day, Franco, G. Magnone, and Sirdar Gyaltsen Norbu summited, followed by Bouvier, S. Coupe, Leroux, and A. Vialatte. By climbing Makalu’s north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (Makalu-La), the French established the standard route.

Mt. Makalu expeditions with its height of 8,485m, is the fifth-highest peak on Earth and the fourth-tallest mountain in Nepal above 8000 meters. Mt. Makalu lies 19km southeast of Mt. Everest, along the border between Nepal and China, in the eastern Himalayas. A natural wonder lies at the base of Mt. Makalu: The Barun Valley. The valley is home to stunning waterfalls that fall inside deep gorges trails to Sherpani Col Pass, diversity in flora and fauna, and rich cultures from ethnic groups such as the Sherpa and Kirat. Even though visitors to this area are somewhat isolated, it is for sure that they will take with them a remembrance that will last a lifetime.

In 1955, the expedition led by the French team reached the summit of Makalu for the first time. Five of the first sixteen attempts were successful. While conducting a route survey of Mt. Everest, Sir Edmund Hilary took a photograph of Mt. Makalu in 1951. Since the first attempt to climb the peak, several other successful attempts have been made. The summit of Makalu resembles a pyramid. In comparison to other ridges, the South East and North West Ridges are more prominent. Most mountaineers use the North-Western ridge route to reach the summit. The Mt. The Makalu Expedition in Nepal is full of adventure and danger. In 1997, a Russian team scaled the most dangerous route, the west route. Following the most challenging route, they reached the summit on 21st May 1997. Makalu is a test of the endurance of a climber. 

It is normal to set up the base camp at around 5,600m, followed by four more camps before reaching the top. Camp 1 is at 6,100m, camp 2 is at 6500m, camp 3 is at 7400m, and camp 4 is at 7800m. Before the ascent, Makalu Top can climb Baruntse peak a acclimatize or just rest and up and down around the Makalu base camp territory 

When is the right time to go on an expedition to Makalu?

Makalu’s prime climbing season is affected by shifting temperatures in the Himalayas, which are unpredictable and extreme. The most ideal time to climb Mount Makalu is in spring and autumn. The weather and temperature are ideal for the Makalu Expedition. The spring season begins in April and lasts until May, while the autumn season begins in September and ends in November. During these seasons, there is no risk of snowfall or rainfall. You can enjoy mountain climbing in the beauty of nature with blooming flowers and clear skies.

How Difficult is the Makalu Expedition?

Makalu Expedition is one of the world’s most technically challenging mountains. Technical sections will test you to the core, with freezing temperatures, oxygen levels, and bulky clothing. Due to its notorious knife-edge ridges and steep pitches, you will need to use fixed ropes, crampons, and axes. Climbers can practice using them on training peaks before attempting an actual climb. Other factors such as sleep deprivation, frostbite, altitude sickness, etc., should also be considered. It is best to reach the summit before noon to avoid strong afternoon winds. In addition to these factors, exhaustion also increases the difficulty level. In order to prevent this, the Makalu Expedition includes an acclimatization walk and a short hour-long walk.

Nepal Wilderness Trekking PVT is a Nepali expedition and peak climbing company founded over 20 years ago. Therefore, Nepali local companies perform all of the legal, administrative, logistical, guiding, and support services in Nepal, as well as being legally responsible for the expedition’s safe and responsible conduct with competitive expedition costs. All of our team are experts in climbing expeditions in the Nepalese Himalayas